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Because the suede has soft luster, soft texture and delicate hand feeling, it is very popular among people. But because of the limited amount of natural suede. Suede is more expensive. With the development of leather tanning technology, people can also make suede processing such as sheepskin, cowhide and pigskin. It is customary to refer to this suede-processed natural leather as suede. With the development of productivity and the improvement of the level of science and technology, people have invented the artificial processing method to produce suede. Usually, we call artificially processed suede called artificial suede or suede.
The suede fabric is a special style textile fabric which is made of special textile materials and processed with special dyeing and finishing process. It is one of the most popular high-end fabrics in the domestic market. The suede feel and appearance are similar to natural suede. Its surface texture is similar to natural suede. After special finishing, it is fine and smooth, soft and full, more durable than natural suede, and easier to maintain. . It is widely used in modern fashion, shoe materials, toys and furniture decoration, and is a novel decorative material. The suede is made of new raw material microfiber as the main raw material. After the reduction (grinding) process, it has not only soft hand feeling, good drapability, strong stability (no shrinkage or elongation due to cleaning), but also good ventilation. Sex, insect proof, anti-corrosion.
The manufacturing method of artificial suede can be roughly classified into three types: a weaving method, a knitting method, and a non-woven method. We are using the first method.
1 Design principle In the development of synthetic fiber suede products, the raw materials we choose are microfiber filaments, which are woven into fabrics. After special dyeing and finishing process, fine and even surfaces are formed on the finished fabric surface. Fluffy. The microfiber has the advantages of fluffiness, elegance, and soft handfeel. The drape and softness of the microfiber fabric are excellent, and the hand feel is comfortable. There are various types of microfibers, which are suitable for suede-like polyester/diester islands and polyester/japanese petals. The island-type fibers are opened by dissolving method, and the orange-shaped fibers are opened by stripping. The method of dissolving the polyester/polyester island-type fiber by the dissolution method to make it into an ultra-fine fiber after opening is relatively reliable. Therefore, we use polyester 16.7tex/36fx371 (island silk) + 7.6tex conventional polyester coated double weft in the weft direction, and we use 11.1tex polyester as the raw material for the development of suede products.
The island silk is a polyester island silk of South Korea's Huiwei Shi Company. There are 37 islands in the single fiber. After the sea is partially dissolved, the single fiber is 0.05De. It has a powdery and soft hand and a suede-like appearance.
2 The analysis of the production process is very important in the success of the production of suede.
2.1 The quality of the raw materials and the selection of the solvent-soluble formula We use the polyester island silk provided by Korea Huwei Shi Company. In order to ensure the stability of the quality of the finished cloth, it is required to ensure that the raw materials are first-class products and the same batch number. The solubilized fiber formulation uses a special high-temperature alkaline water (150 ° C, pH = 13-14 water) process formulation matching the raw materials.
2.2 Weaving process Weaving process should be doubled or evenly coated. The process selection of vacuum and lifting and cooling is very important. Otherwise, the coloring phenomenon is easy after dyeing.
2.3 The sanding dyeing and squeezing treatments have poor sanding effect and will produce deep and light colors. The sanding of the fabric is done by cutting the corundum. The number of sands is small, the diamond particles are large, the force on the fabric during the sanding process is large, the fluff is long, and the fabric strength is also large. If the number of sand skins is too large, sanding is more difficult and the cost is increased accordingly. According to the grinding mechanism, we adopted the “first heavy and light†grinding process for the five sanding rolls, that is, the first sanding roller used a lower mesh sanding belt. The purpose is to cut as much as possible of the fibers in the yarn into single fibers; the latter four rollers use a relatively high number of sand belts, in order to continue to pull the fibers out of the yarn, and more It is important to grind the cut single fibers into fluff, so that the fluff after grinding can achieve a "fine and short" effect. The tension during dyeing is also important. If the tension is too large, it will cause hair loss, such as the shape of the chicken claw.
The treatment of suede is mainly soft treatment of suede, and the quality of the treatment directly affects the hand and the performance of the fabric.
3 Conclusion Because the suede is made of sea-type island silk fiber, the fabric is treated with fibrillation and sanded, and the fibers are separated from each other to form ultra-fine fibers, which have a strong suede effect and are currently at home and abroad. The more popular medium and high-end fabrics have a broader market and a lucrative return on profits.