Wool knitwear is a wool-based knitwear. Its main features are strong extensibility and good elasticity. Therefore, it can be in close contact with the human body without hindering the movement of the human body, and has good softness and warmth, so that it is comfortable to wear and has excellent taking performance. Sewing piece → semi-finished product inspection → fluffing → keyhole button buckle → ironing stereotype → garment inspection 2 . Garment process requirements Changzhou Broad New Materials Technology Co., Ltd , http://www.czbroad.com
(1) Wool knitting production process
Wool yarn into the factory → raw material inspection → preparation project → knitting project → garment engineering → finished product inspection → packaging and storage
After the wool yarn raw materials enter the warehouse, the test and inspection department will take samples in time to test the line density and uniformity of the yarn count, and meet the requirements before they can be put into production.
Most of the yarns entering the factory are in the form of skein, which must be subjected to the winding process to make it suitable for the knitting of the flat knitting machine. The semi-finished pieces after knitting are inspected and entered into the garment process. The garment workshop is mechanically or hand-stitched according to the process requirements. According to the product characteristics, the garment-making process also includes finishing processes such as napping, fluffing and embroidering. Finally, after inspection, ironing, shaping, re-testing, sorting and packaging.
(2) The deviation of the linear density of the raw materials for raw material inspection, the uniformity of the strip, the moisture regain and the color fastness, directly affect the quality of the product. Therefore, when the raw materials are inspected and problems are found, the process can be revised in time, and technical measures are taken to prevent the quality of the finished products from being affected.
(3) The purpose of the preparation process and the various wool yarns sent to the sweater factory, mostly in the form of skein, cannot be knitted directly on the knitting machine; at the same time, various defects and impurities will exist on these yarns. Affect the quality and yield of the knitting. Therefore, the purpose of the preparation process is to wind the skein into a cartridge form to meet the needs of yarn unwinding in the weaving production; to remove defects and impurities on the surface of the yarn, and to wax and soften the wool yarn; according to the process requirements The wool yarn is twisted and processed to increase the yarn fastness and increase the thickness of the wool fabric .
When winding the yarn, the elasticity and elongation of the yarn should be kept as much as possible, and the tension is required to be uniform and the unwinding is smooth.
(4) Cardigan knitting equipment, knitting type and garment inspection
Knitting is the main process of sweater production. The knitting machine has two kinds of flat knitting machine and round knitting machine. Since the flat knitting machine has relatively many advantages, such as the method of increasing or decreasing the number of needles to weave the garment piece suitable for the human body, it is possible to form the garment without cutting, thereby saving raw materials, reducing the number of processes, changing the pattern, and changing the variety. Convenient and so on, so sweater companies mostly use flat knitting. However, due to the characteristics of fast speed and high output, the circular machine is getting more and more attention from some manufacturers.
According to the type of sweater weaving, it can be divided into two categories: full shape and cut shape. The full-form knitting is to adopt the needle-removing and needle-retracting process to achieve the desired shape and size of each part. After knitting, it can be ready for garment without cutting, and is used for weaving high-grade products made of animal fiber. The cutting type can be divided into partial cutting and overall cutting. The partial cutting is generally performed by using a stepped copying needle (needle-cutting needle) process on the shoulder and the sleeve of the mountain, and then partially cutting to obtain the desired shape size and cutting loss. The amount is small, and the output can be improved. This method is mostly used to weave medium-to-high-grade products such as fine-pitch fabrics and jacquard tissues. The overall cutting generally refers to the shape and size of the desired shape after being knitted into a piece of cloth by a circular machine. In this way, the cutting loss is large, and it is generally applied in low-grade raw materials.
After the machine piece produced on the flat knitting machine is disembarked, it must pass the piece-by-piece inspection to meet the requirements before entering the garment manufacturing process. The contents of the piece inspection include the specifications of the piece (ie the length of the piece, the length of the rib, the number of rotations of the folder, the number of stitches, etc.), the weight of the piece and the appearance quality, and the appearance quality includes the missing needle, the flower needle, and the blank Silk and so on.
The density and specifications of the test piece should be checked after the piece is fully retracted. During the knitting process, the longitudinal stretching of the threading plate, the hanging hammer, etc., combined with the tension during the knitting, makes the density of the lower back piece, the size of each part and the actual requirements of the finished product greatly different, so after the machine is removed The piece of clothing, after standing for a certain period of time, does not retract to reflect the actual density and specifications. However, this method of natural retraction (relaxation and contraction) takes a long time. In practice, various external pressurization methods, such as agglomeration, contracture, and crimping, are often used to quickly retract the pieces.
(5) Garment process
1 .
The garment process process sweaters are stitched to connect the collars, sleeves, front and back of the clothes, and buttons, pockets and other auxiliary materials, and some are also modified by wet finishing methods and embroidering methods to make the garments have certain styles and characteristics. . The general process flow for garments is:
( 1 ) Sewing requirements: The stitching of the sweater should have the same stretchability and strength as the shirt body. Except for the pocket, the elongation rate is usually required to reach 130 %. In principle, the stitching must be the same as the raw material, color and yarn density of the sweater. The stitching of the carded product and the upper thread of the machine seam should be made of combed yarn. The bottom line of flat seams, overlocks, etc. must not be too high, soft, elastic, smooth and strong enough.
( 2 ) The requirement of fluffing: the fluffing is a wet finishing process, which utilizes the fluffing characteristics of animal fibers, so that after the fibers are wetted by the moist heat, the scales are soft and soft, and under the action of friction, the fluff is expressed, the feel is full, and the appearance is improved. . Fulling applied cashmere, angora sweaters, pullovers etc. Lambswool carded products, the product may be normal combing, wet finishing washing for a short time or a light milling to improve the appearance.
The additives, temperature, bath ratio, time and other parameters used for the fluffing must be used properly. Otherwise, if the fluffing is excessive, the batch products will be felted and cannot be compensated. In the process of fluffing, the degree of shrinkage should be checked midway, and the suede standard should be compared to prevent excessive fluffing.
( 3 ) Ironing and shaping: The purpose of ironing is to shape the product, maintain the style characteristics, and the appearance is flat and firm, and the hand feels comfortable. When ironing, put the sweater on the model to meet the specifications. The sweater setting temperature is generally 120 ° C ~ 180 ° C , to prevent " hot yellow, aurora " during operation . During the ironing process, the sweater is subjected to a drafting process to accelerate the cooling and reduce the humidity.
In recent years, more and more steaming machines (flatteners) have been used. It consists of an automatic lifting plate and a fixed lower plate. The setting time (spray time and residence time) is 4s to 30s. Between, its efficiency is greatly improved compared to manual ironing.
(6) Finished product inspection
Finished product inspection is a comprehensive inspection before the product leaves the factory. There are three special procedures in the inspection of sweaters, including re-measurement, finishing and classification. The contents include appearance quality (dimensional tolerance, appearance defects), physical indicators (single weight, needle ring density), inner and outer packaging.
In the finishing process, a small number of defects that are not in the retreat range, such as oil stains, residual grass clippings, and seams that can be removed, can be repaired at any time.